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• Residential irrigation system review and troubleshooting

• Controller programming and cycle/soak scheduling

• Central Texas slope, clay soil, heat, and drought-aware strategies

• Water waste and runoff reduction focus

• Agronomic support for healthier landscapes

• Honest recommendations before expensive repairs or upgrades

• Optional data testing when useful

• Secondary property management support available when needed

Our Process

1. Review the property or project.

2. Evaluate irrigation performance and site conditions.

3. Identify waste, dry spots, runoff, and limitations.

4. Recommend programming, repair, or upgrade options.

5. Help improve long-term water efficiency and landscape health.

Knowledge Center

Repairing Dry Spots & Improving Soil Moisture

Dry patches often develop where water doesn’t soak in evenly – hydrophobic soils, compacted soil layers, mis‑aligned sprinkler heads and shallow roots all contribute. Use a soil probe or screwdriver to see if the soil is dry only in certain spots.

- Check irrigation coverage: make sure each sprinkler head overlaps properly and adjust or unclog nozzles so water reaches every area.

- Water deeply & infrequently: irrigate to a depth of 4–6 inches, allowing the surface to dry slightly between cycles. On heavy clay, use the cycle‑and‑soak method (multiple short runs) to avoid runoff.

- Aerate & amend: core aeration relieves compaction and lets water and air reach the root zone; follow with a thin layer of compost to improve soil structure and moisture-holding capacity.

- Reduce thatch & traffic: excessive thatch and heavy foot traffic prevent water penetration; remove thatch and rotate play areas to minimise compaction.

Identifying & Managing Turf Diseases

Warm‑season lawns are prone to fungi during warm, humid weather. Brown patch creates circular areas of brown grass with yellow borders, while take‑all root rot causes thinning and yellowing.

- Avoid high nitrogen rates in late fall.

- Water only when needed and early in the morning so foliage dries quickly.

- Mow at the recommended height for your turf and bag clippings in infected areas.

- Improve drainage and sunlight by thinning shade trees and removing thatch.

- Use fungicides labelled for the disease if cultural practices aren’t enough.

Diagnosing Soil Compaction & Shallow Roots

Compacted soil feels hard and sheds water; turf roots stay near the surface and dry quickly. Standing water after rain and difficulty inserting a probe are warning signs.

- Core aeration opens pathways for air and water; heavily trafficked areas may need multiple aerations per year.

- Topdressing with compost after aeration adds organic matter and encourages beneficial microbes.

- Limit traffic on wet soils to prevent further compaction.

Best Mowing Procedures

Mowing height affects root depth and stress tolerance. Follow the “one‑third rule” – remove no more than one‑third of the leaf blade at a time and mow when the grass is dry with sharp blades. Recommended heights for common warm‑season grasses:

- St. Augustine: 3–4 inches; shade tolerant but needs deep roots.

- Bermuda: 1–2 inches; thrives in full sun and tolerates heavy traffic.

- Zoysia: 1–2.5 inches depending on variety; moderate shade and drought tolerance.

- Buffalograss: 2.5–3.5 inches; drought‑tolerant and low‑maintenance.

Leave clippings on the lawn to recycle nutrients unless disease is present.

Watering Schedules

Efficient irrigation conserves water and promotes deeper roots. Deep, infrequent watering (wetting the soil 4–6 inches) encourages roots to grow deeper. Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and disease pressure. Adjust irrigation frequency for soil type – clay soils hold water longer than sandy soils. Install rain sensors or soil moisture meters to avoid watering when it’s not needed. In extreme drought, warm‑season grasses can go dormant; occasional watering (about 0.5 inch every 2–3 weeks) will keep crowns alive until rains return.

Common Central Texas Grasses & Management

- St. Augustine: coarse, shade‑tolerant turf that spreads via stolons. Needs at least 35 inches of annual rainfall or supplemental irrigation; mow high (3–4 inches) and avoid overwatering to prevent diseases.

- Bermudagrass: fine to medium texture; very drought ‑ and traffic‑tolerant. Grows best in full sun; mow at 1–2 inches and water deeply but not frequently.

- Zoysiagrass: dense turf with moderate drought and shade tolerance. Requires less nitrogen than bermuda; mow at 1–2.5 inches and avoid excessive watering.

- Buffalograss: native, low‑water turf suited to open sunny areas in Central and West Texas. Mow at 2.5–3.5 inches; requires minimal irrigation and fertilization.

Soil Profile Preferences & Management



Central Texas soils range from heavy clays to sandy loams. Before planting turf, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost into the top 6–8 inches of soil to improve water retention and structure. Most warm‑season grasses prefer a slightly acidic pH (6.0‑7.0); soil tests will guide amendments. Provide adequate drainage in low spots and avoid over‑fertilizing, which can invite disease. Mulch around trees and shrubs to conserve moisture and recycle grass clippings back onto the lawn whenever possible.

1. Sources: Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, Texas Water Development Board, Urban Programs Travis County, Bexar County Master Gardeners.